Making this list is pretty tough. There were so many amazing places to eat in Oaxaca, but here’s my attempt:
Oaxacking Food Tour: Honestly, I hesitated on booking this because it was more expensive than I thought a Mexico food tour should be. It was amazing. We ate upscale, street food, all over town with stops that changed based on the make-up of the group.
Levadura de Olla: A nicer restaurant that features great takes on regional food. One highlight was a tomato salad that was so simple, but so perfect. A layer of beet puree on the bottom of a platter, topped with thinly sliced local tomatoes, micro greens and a very light dressing. It was so good, we went back for it a few times!
Santa Hierba: We found this place because it was connected to our co-working space, but WOW some of their food was delicious. Healthy-focused foods like freshly squeezed juices, salmon bowls, sandwiches and soups.
Casa Taviche: The menu del dia here was such a good value on tasty food-3 courses plus a drink for about $6. Maybe 10 tables, most of which in a small back courtyard. The menu rotates regularly based on the ingredients available, so just roll with what they have each day.
Chefinita: This street food cart posole was in the regular rotation with our friends. Be prepared to get close with strangers at the awkward picnic table or counter seating, but its so worth it. A deep red pork-based broth loaded with hominy, chunks of stewed pork, and a lot of herbs. When you get yours, add in any limes or hot sauce you might want and then enjoy!
Boulenc: Touristy and certainly on every “places to eat” list. But, sometimes you just need something non-Mexican for when you’ve had days and days of street food. This is the cure. This place has taken over a good portion of the block and offers a bakery, restaurant, bar and small grocery store. Pop into the restaurant for pizzas, sandwiches and a killer mezcal cocktail
Los Danzantes: A long-standing tourist restaurant, with gorgeous architecture. We had our last Oaxaca dinner here, and really enjoyed the Hierba Santa appetizer and seafood entrees. (Hierba Santa is a plant leaf that is used in Oaxaca with a very distinctive taste. This version the leaf was stewed, then filled with quesillo and goat cheeses, and then plated on a green salsa)
Casa Convite: If you read about tetelas from the last post, this is where they came from! We first went here on the food tour, and came back again just to get them.
Criollo: Our favorite “high end” restaurant in the city. They have stations set up in the restaurant and in the jardin out back where the staff focuses on one traditional cooking style at each station—a tortilla maker, meat smoking, pastries, mini-memelas, etc. It’s a contemporary take on local Oaxacan food. We had a brunch where the meats were hung from chains and smoked for hours. The meats were to die for and the concha (topped with traditional corn topping, not the usual sugar and milk) was the best I’ve ever had.
I ended up having to make a reservation by stopping over, because the online system kept telling me they had no options—so keep this in mind if you get the same issue.
Nieves El Niagara: On the plaza in from of Basilica Soledad is many nieves (hand-made ice cream). Likely, they are all pretty much the same, so you can use this info as a destination marker, and then decide which place to eat at when you get there. While the traditional flavors are Leche Quemada (burned milk) topped with a little Tuna (fruit from a cactus, not a deep sea fish!) and you’ll want to try them—be sure to also get the tangerine if it’s in season while you are around.
Pasillo de Humo: Mercardo 20 de Noviembre or Mercado de Abastos. This literally translates to mean “Hallway of Smoke” and its true. Think of a hallway of small stalls—each one selling meat, and each with their own charcoal grill that you can use to grill that meat. You then go to a communal table where you can buy drinks and other accoutrement to support your pile of grilled meat. The first time we went to the one in Mercado 20 de Noviembre, but then learned that that one is touristy and the locals are more likely to end up at the one in Mercado de Abastos. (Stall #15, if you make it to Abastos)
Doña Vale (Mercado de Abastos): By now you’ve seen the Netflix show where everyone has seen the tough lady Dona Vale’s story. Finding the stall is pretty hard, but you’ll be rewarded when you find it. You’ll be eating memelas (oblong and thicker than a tortilla—like a pre-Colombian version of a tortilla) with amazing sauce and a bit of cheese, and optional steak to top it off.
Doña Lina (Mercado de Abastos): Take a young goat, bury it in the ground wrapped in banana leaves, cook it for hours and hours, then turn it into a savory soup. Too much work? Just go to Doña Lina. She’s not very far from Doña Vale’s stall, so go there and then start asking for the cabrito/barbacoa section of the market.
Tacos del Carmen: As an American, I think breakfast tacos must have scrambled eggs in them. It seems I’m wrong on that front. This stand is open for breakfast (and when they run out of something, they are out for the day). Technically they are open until about 1, but be there by 11 for a good selection. Be sure one item in your order is the chorizo taco.
Empanadas del Carmen: This is another iconic cart. Just a few feet from Tacos del Carmen, but only open at night. Order up a quesadilla with mole amarillo (yellow mole) and squash blossoms. If its not blossom season, you can opt for the chicken. Grab a seat on the curb, and chow down!
Mercado Organico La Cosecha: A pretty, gringo-focused place centered around a courtyard for eating food from the various stalls around. As well, there are small shops to buy oils, soaps, woven items, organic produce and packaged goods, etc.
Carnitas: 17°03’42.0″N 96°43’54.9″W Consider this one a bit of a scavenger hunt. I think this place is called El Guerro Lavarirga but the way to find it is to go to this GPS dot on a weekday before 1pm and look for the huge swarm of people standing around munching on carnitas tacos. Here is where I learned you can order carnitas by the part of the body. I really liked the costillas (ribs), but there are a lot of parts to try. If you don’t know, you’ll end up with a mix which is also delicious.
And a side note—I’m no longer in Oaxaca as I’m writing this…but typing this up makes me ready to go back!